If the electric heat does not work then you will need to troubleshoot with a voltmeter being careful to not get shocked. Recently, when I turn the fan “on” by the thermostat to circulate air, the thermostat clicks like it is turning on, but I never feel any air coming out of the vents. I hope you can get your unit fixed soon. This is the first question we ask a customer when we receive a service call and the customer says the outside unit is not coming on. I have to reset by turning breaker off for a minute and then back on. I live in Canada Ontario. You could tell your customer to turn the fan to “Fan On” so you do not have to make an extra trip and see what happens. Your unit could be low on charge and this could be causing the outdoor unit to accumulate ice quickly, thus causing the heat pump to defrost too often. We have found the capacitors to be a real problem and have taken advice to have spares on hand. If the breaker is warm on the outside after the air conditioner runs for a while then this is a sure sign that the breaker is arcing on the inside and needs to be replaced. We get lots of repair calls after a storm. Since I have started using the “Term-Lok” repair kit, I have not had one call back for burnt compressor terminals! The thermostat seems to be working fine and keeping temperature when it is on. If you fan is humming with the contactor open and the thermostat not calling for cooling then you might have a shorted winding or slight short in one of the wires that are going to the fan motor. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve. I would like to suggest that you tape the furnace blower door shut and turn the thermostat to “FAN ON”. but the temperature in the house was only 64 and I think it was 60 outside. I was thinking blower over loads bad, but not sure and do not want to just keep changing out parts. Please let us know if this solves the problem so others will know. My situation may be slightly unique in that I have a mini-split LG system. Required duct size is also calculated. Your electric bill should go down, but you are not going to get the nice cold feeling that you had on your old unit. If the unit has a time delay you might try temporarily by-passing the delay to see if that stops the problem. Hi Terri! Can you advise. Is you’re address not working ! Also, is it possible that this is happening because of a bad reversing valve? Great write-up! Hope you have a great day! i know a little bit, to know that seems kinda low. This Beacon Delay on make timer replaces the following timers: ICM102B, EAC700, EAC701, TD69, 3310-06, 3239, 32367, IC-310, IC-213, & AC-800. Sounds like you either have a control board problem, or a fan motor problem. of and to in a is that for on ##AT##-##AT## with The are be I this as it we by have not you which will from ( at ) or has an can our European was all : also " - 's your We If the motor is not getting hot and you think the defrost control is cutting the fan motor off then you might need a new defrost control. The Y (yellow wire most of the time) energizes the heat pump outdoor unit’s contactor or goes to the heat pump defrost control board and the 24 volts comes out of the defrost board to energize the heat pump contactor. I have no idea why your unit would not work one time and then started working. More than likely the motor is bad. Hi Kini! My first question is, from all that info, does it also seem to you that my fan motor is the culprit? The outside unit is not kicking on it all, switched to air and kicks on fine then. I see no physical damage that would lead me to believe any component is bad. Hi, When I turn on the AC, the outside Heatpump turns on the compressor and fan but within a few seconds shuts off. I am not saying this company is telling a lie, but I know that many companies are under pressure to sell new systems by there employers. It seems to run OK (puts out cold in the summer), but it is very loud. Dan that sounds as if the zone motor or relay is failing and needs repair or replacement. Steve. His logic was that if the compressor was getting slugged with liquid that it would have condensation and would be growing algae or mildew. This should be an easy problem to find and the tech should come out and do testing when the temperature outside is 85 degrees or below. I am at a loss. us is that during South Florida Summers our unit will be working fine and then we will notice it is not blowing cool. This sounds like the compressor could be over-heating and going off on thermal over-load. I would suggest turning the power off to the furnace and making sure all the wires are tight. I’ve been given quotes to replace the existing compressor with the same technology (which I won’t), to switch to a new, complete compressor/condenser unit single-stage (supposedly a scroll compressor), or a new complete compressor/condenser dual stage/possibly multi-stage. The air handler door has no safety switch and in air handler there are no fuses, nor is there any on the controller board (located outside in unit). See OIL LINE BUZZ & VIBRATION CURE for a discussion of the causes and cures for buzzing and vibration that seems to come from the oil piping itself. Long Air conditioning run times. I opened it up, fault code was ‘no faults, y present, ASCD timer not expired’ I did the 3 second jump. For the time being, I’ve bypassed the defrost control board relay, and wired the appropriate fan lead to the switched side of the contactor. Steve. The inside blower motor fuse burns up as soon as the power is added. 2.5 ton for upstairs. This sounds like either you have the thermostat wired wrong or the thermostat wires might be shorted out. If I turn the thermostat on too soon the cool down light on the thermostat blinks as if the compressor is turned off and cycle on too fast. Steve. No more burnt compressor terminals! If you unit sounds like the compressor is starting and stopping I would suggest turning the heat pump off and run on emergency heat until you can get an AC tech out to find out what is wrong. With the thermostat calling for cooling you should have 24 volts between the Y and C (com) connections if you do not then you have a thermostat problem or a broken thermostat wire. A unit that is low on charge will have a hot compressor. On some controls this clearance is so tight that the relay or is trapped solid so that it cannot move - leading to a no-heat service call. Any suggestion? I decided to wait it out, and about 10 minutes later, it came back on again. To fix the problem I turn the thermostat off. When I put my hand on the mounting cage above the motor at times when it stops running, it does feel hot, but no hotter than the entire rest of the outdoor unit. Steve. With the fan blade spinning in the wrong direction the motor will not load and it will burn up over time. They have changed the capacitor and fan motor and are now going to put in a new compressor. The 5A fuse of the 24VAC system blows after running for awhile. We sell some 5 amp fuses on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/product/5-amp-buss-atc-circuit-board-fuse-5-pack/ We also sell a handy testing tool if you are burning up lots of fuses on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/product/lil-popper-control-circuit-breaker-tool-5-amp/ I hope you have a great day. Before changing out a contactor or working on an air conditioner please make sure you pull the outdoor disconnect or indoor breaker that controls the air conditioner. Thanks so much for asking this great question! I turned the breakers back on and had the same problem. Some typical reasons for oil burner failure are in the article above. Many universal motors do not have rain shields, but have drain plugs that can be opened or closed depending on how the motor is installed, horizontal, vertical, shaft up or shaft down. As it got warmer here in Texas, I noticed the unit running almost constantly, often with the blower sounding like it was at low speed. If the compressor is hot then it could be caused by a number of problems: (1) yes, the system could be low on charge, (2) the condenser coil could be dirty, (3) you could have a weak capacitor that is not allowing the condenser fan to run at full speed. I would have to get a tech here to check the pressure in the coil, there is also an ambient temp sensor and a coil temp sensor. I hope you can get this fixed easily and inexpensively. This morning I tried it again with the same results. Also replaced compressor once out of warranty. We have this chart on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/air-conditioner-troubleshooting-flow-chart/ We have lots of troubleshooting questions with answers and videos on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/troubleshooting/ Sorry, but this is one of those problems where you almost have to be there when the problem occurs to troubleshoot and find out where the problem is coming from. I used 200k setting on DMM. The outdoor unit will only run in the air conditioning mode if you do not have a heat pump and have electric or gas heat. T stat is in no aux, no backup mode. Hi Bradley! I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. I would suggest that you get this fixed as soon as possible because it is very hard on the compressor when the fan blade stops. come on when the heat pump defrosts the white wire is usually hooked up at the outdoor unit’s defrost board and the white wire runs to activate the relay on your electric heaters. We did have a series of storms a couple of months back. unit is about 10 years old, Hi Joe! Yes, it can damage the heat pump if the fan does not come on. I have a air-source heat pump that was installed this summer, with an old Payne air handler/furnace. Could be caused by a burn out reversing valve solenoid or a stuck reversing valve. Could there be something else causing this delay of the compressor to turn on. Many times if you are selling a home, home inspectors look for permits to make sure HVAC, plumbing and electrical equipment are installed to code. If you do not want to join the wires together for this test, then I would suggest getting a volt meter and test between R and C to make sure you are getting 24 to 28 volts AC at the thermostat. I'm sorry but I can't tell from just the text that you posted. Unit was working great up till now. They said they would get Lead Tech out the next day to address the issue (they left at 7pm). Hi David! I don’t want a Lemon from the start. When I checked the breaker, it tripped off. Since you changed the thermostat and replaced the fan relay about the only thing that I can think of would be an open limit. I will be glad to try and answer any questions after you find out where the low voltage thermostat wires terminate (see what they are controlling). The blower motor started acting like what you describe and it was the motor module that was going out and I had to replace the module. What’s goin’ on? If you are getting 24 volts between G and C then you have a thermostat or thermostat wire problem. Maybe I wired something wrong thanks, Hi Thomas! I have a Gibson unit, runs fine on Air, but have turned heat on and only inside unit running. We installed a TRANE 16 SEER unit about 8 years ago.